Hey… I hate to suggest this as an option, but if all else falls through for this fella’, he could go for plan B [all that you can B].
Today the scrollwheel on the mouse is starting to act up… I use for opening tabs and scrolling and yadayadayada… So it’s quite annoying.
I had the same issue a month ago with a Razer mouse, and it bothered the ever-loving life out of me… sometimes middle-clicking, sometimes not middle-clicking without an abnormal amount of pressure … So I upgraded to a Roccat and now I’m happy.
Heh… The mouse I’m having trouble with is a Razer.
I have a simple Logitech mouse, like those really inexpensive ones.
I’ve been using the middle mouse like 100+ times a day opening links and images for 5 years.
So far i only noticed it needs to be pushed just a tiny bit harder to click.
Oh shit. I just ordered all the parts for a new computer, and I’m finally coming to terms with the fact the case I ordered doesn’t have any bays for a CD/DVD drive. Is this normal???
For reference, my last (current) desktop computer is a single-core 32-bit with a 3.25" diskette A:\ drive.
… Maybe this should go in the happy-topic or the pimp-your thread, but the stuff I ordered should not only be a massive upgrade, but also be remarkably silent and feature a separately water-cooled CPU & GPU.
Relative to current computer, new computer will have:
200% the bits, 4x the cores, 130% the clock speed, 800% the memory, 12 year newer graphics card, 1600% the hard drive space, 10000% the hard drive transfer speed
I guess it belongs in this topic because I’ve been dealing with the 12-year old desktop for a while now.
Could you post the specs of the old and new PC?
i’m really curious.
aaaargh, I’ve been trying to fix my net problems for a bit, now that I have done it, I can only connect to these forums and not Steam or other forums. WHY WINDOWS WHY EVERYTHING WHY TELSTRAAAA
Sure, why not!
- “Prescott” Pentium 4, x86, 3.2 GHz (single-core, duh)
- 2GB DDR2
- Nvidia 6800 GT, 350 MHz core, 256 MB memory module, Dx9
- 120GB ATA HD
- fuck-if-I-know Watt PSU
- “Kaby Lake” Core i7-7700K*, x64, 4.2 GHz (8-threaded quad-core. I think?)
- 16 GB DDR4
- Nvidia GXT 1080*, 1632 MHz core, 8 GB memory module, Dx12
- 2TB SATA SSHD
- 750 Watt PSU (maybe a bit large, but recommended by my friend Justin Case)
- items marked with an asterisk are to use independent water-cooling
(note: I found out when researching this post that the new processor was released for desktops only 2 weeks ago – that was a bit unintentional!)
(oh, also: everything that COULD COME in white WILL BE in white, with everything else as black accents. It’s inspired by the white paint of nuclear bombers, for reflecting and radiating as much heat as systemly possible. Also Stormtroopers. And my avatar.)
Mine doesn’t have one either, so I have one of these just for it:
Just plug it in with USB and it works perfectly fine, I maybe use it 1-2 times a year, most games can be download anyhow and for movies I got Netflix.
Had the same issue, so I just left my case open while I installed windows. After that, I use a CD of any kind like once a year, so it’s not really cumbersome for me.
Also I’m kinda jelly of your i7. I settled for an i5 thinking “Eh, no game will really need an i7” but then I realized I compile maps which is ridiculously CPU-heavy so now I feel like I made the wrong decision.
Heh, installing an OS by CD (with an open case) isn’t really an option for me considering none of the optical drives I have are SATA. Fortunately I got a 4GB thumb-drive to be bootable!
But YOU GIVE ME A VERY GOOD IDEA, CRYPT!
I COULD MOUNT AN OPTICAL DRIVE INTERNALLY!
While this may makes no sense initially, the glass side of the case I ordered (link) opens with a single button-press on top, making it relatively easy to access the innards (for as often as I care to actually use an optical disc). It would be more convenient to me if it’s inside rather than an external USB accessory, and possibly cheaper, as well. (Though with the lack of optical drives being a common trend, I might be delaying the inevitable-- I’m sure that external drive is occasionally useful with tablets and the like).
I’m sure somewhere in the case will be able to mount an optical drive in a location it can open, as a sort of secret compartment for the occasional CD or DVD. But I might have to get creative…
LOL THIS SUX
EVERY PART for my new computer is arriving in the mail this afternoon
EXCEPT FOR THE CASE which arrives 24 hours later.
Omg it’s going to be torture.
OMG happy, the case just arrived 24 hours ahead of schedule! Before everything else, too!
First build in 12 years, gonna be exciting.
Son#2 is building his first puter and so far has had zero luck. Two motherboards from same company won’t POST and he doesn’t know if it is him or the MBs. I know zero to nothing about hardware so I cant really help other than give him the help link that NateDGreat gave me. IT neighbor can help, but his schedule is spotty. Going on three weeks of computer parts sitting on my dining room table. Ugh. Poor kid.
That is rough.
I build and work on them for a living.
Computer parts are complex and it is not uncommon for brand new parts to be bad.
In other words the end user is now final test.
Be wary of static electricity, ground yourself if you can. If there is something in the house that always zaps you with static, touch it before touching the parts.
So where to start. Read the manual, it’s always the last place i look. :S
Some motherboards have 2 pins for speaker out (located where the hdd led, reset, power sw pins are), this is for error beep codes and the speaker looks like this. https://www.amazon.com/PC-Internal-Mini-Onboard-Speaker/dp/B002W4M0DW
The one time I did not use it and had a booting issue due to bad memory, a coworker said hook up the mini speaker and sure enough when I powered it on it made 3 long beeps. The 3 beep code for that mb was for bad memory. Nowadays the speaker may not be included because the mb has an led display for codes.
It could be memory, try single sticks, try different slots, repeat.
Disconnect everything that is not needed for booting, including pci cards. Examples include dvd/cdrom, usb headers, audio header, power and hard drive case LED’s.
If the CPU has built-in graphics (integrated, which most have), try it first before installing a graphics card.
The only case connection you really need is one for the power switch, sometimes labeled POWER SW (for the power button on the front of the computer case)
It could be the power supply, try another. Make sure the smaller motherboard power connect is hooked up. http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/314135-30-what-square-slot-power-plug-motherboard
Is the monitor good, try another monitor cable, try HDMI then VGA and then DVI.
I have even seen bad CPU’s. Make sure that the CPU socket is free of debris, the smallest piece of dust can cause stop a pin from making contact.
Just about anything can go wrong. FOR EXAMPLE Is the motherboard mounted properly to the case using standoffs. A trainee where i worked once mounted a mb directly to the case back plate, the trainer approved it. Power on was more smoke than mirrors.
If I can help remotely in any way just holler
As mentioned above the easiest thing to do is that, I had a GPU die on me and it prevented the machine from posting too. I didn’t have the slightest clue why it wasn’t posting until I did a proper set by completely taking the thing apart and using a bare-bones system; PSU, mobo, stick of RAM, CPU, GPU (if necessary, some mobos have their graphics integrated into them) with a monitor hooked up and start it up. If it starts properly, if there’s no issue, then start slowly connecting things until you don’t post; there’s your part that’s bad.
Just make sure to replace some parts as necessary as well is it doesn’t initially post with a bare-bones system.
I guess its just my inner hardware geek asking this, but why on earth would anyone do that unless they wanted to fry their machine?
I did not explain that very well. The trainer did not notice that the trainee had mounted the mb to the backplate, it was a manufacturing error.
And it goes without saying that if the bare bones system does not start then there is an issue with one of the parts. :rolleyes:
Omg, motherboard issues are the worst … not like you can do an easy chop-and-swap, ya know ?!
I realized with my MoBo that if I had plugged something in 1 pin off, it would have caused the computer to restart every time the hard drive would write something.
FORTUNATELY, my new build went great!!! It’s so quiet with the water-cooling, too. Still no optical drive, so I’ll need the net to load some drivers, but everything else was plug-and-play. Did you know my BIOS would have been willing to install Windows from an ISO…?
The one thing I struggled with was the CPU fan* connection … Its pins were really inaccessible due to motherboard layout + my choice of case, but after A LOT of fiddling with the plug, it started working.
Looks pretty sick, man! Congrats